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Find the right guide quickly, whether you're buying, installing, maintaining or troubleshooting your wood floor.

Wood Flooring Basics

What engineered wood flooring is, how it's made, solid vs laminate comparisons, and understanding wear layers.

Product Types

Engineered, solid, VSPC, parquet and herringbone: what each is and when to choose it.

Installation Guides

Floating, glue-down, nail-down and herringbone installation methods plus subfloor preparation.

Grades, Finishes & Specs

Understanding wood grades, surface finishes (oiled, lacquered, hardwax), certification and specs.

Maintenance & Aftercare

How to clean, re-oil, re-lacquer and repair your floor. What not to use and how often to re-finish.

Problems & Troubleshooting

Creaking floors, gaps, cupping, water damage, fading and scratches. Causes and solutions.

In-depth information

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What Is Engineered Wood Flooring?

Engineered wood flooring is real wood, a thin layer of solid hardwood bonded to a stable core of plywood or HDF. The surface you walk on is genuine solid hardwood; oak, walnut, ash, or whichever species you choose. The difference lies beneath: instead of a single thick plank, engineered wood uses a layered cross-ply core that resists the expansion and contraction caused by central heating and humidity changes.

An engineered board has three main components:

  • Wear layer (2–6mm): The real hardwood surface. Thicker wear layers allow more sanding and refinishing. A 6mm layer can typically be refinished three or four times.
  • Core (6–14mm): Cross-ply birch plywood or HDF with alternating grain directions for dimensional stability.
  • Backing (1–2mm): A balancing ply that prevents the board bowing over time.
Solid Wood vs Engineered Wood vs Laminate

Solid wood is a single plank of timber 18–22mm thick. It looks identical to engineered wood but is more susceptible to movement in homes with central heating and cannot generally be installed over underfloor heating.

Engineered wood has the same real hardwood surface but sits on a stable plywood core. It works with underfloor heating, on concrete subfloors, and in kitchens, making it the most practical choice for the majority of homes.

Laminate is not real wood. The surface is a photographic print of wood under a wear layer. It cannot be sanded or refinished and typically feels different underfoot. It costs less but lacks the longevity of real wood.

Understanding Wear Layers

The wear layer is the real hardwood surface of an engineered board, the part you see, walk on, and can eventually sand and refinish. A wear layer of 2mm can be lightly sanded once. A 4–6mm wear layer can be sanded and refinished two to four times, giving a potential lifespan of 30–50 years with proper care.

Note: This information is for guidance only. Always consult a professional flooring installer before making installation decisions.

Engineered Wood Flooring

The most popular wood floor type. A real hardwood surface (2–6mm) bonded to a birch plywood core. Works over underfloor heating, on concrete subfloors, and in kitchens. Available in planks or parquet/herringbone formats.

Solid Wood Flooring

A single plank of timber from top to bottom, typically 18–22mm thick. Can be sanded many times over its life (100+ years in the right conditions). Not suitable over most underfloor heating systems and more susceptible to seasonal movement in centrally heated homes.

Parquet & Herringbone Flooring

Parquet refers to wood flooring laid in a geometric pattern. The most popular pattern is herringbone, rectangular blocks laid at 45 or 90 degree angles to create a zigzag effect. Chevron, brick bond, and basket weave are other options. Available in both solid and engineered wood. Requires specialist installation and generates 15–20% more waste than straight plank laying.

VSPC Flooring

VSPC (Vinyl Stone Polymer Composite) is a fully waterproof flooring with a printed wood-effect surface. It is not real wood but offers genuine water resistance, making it suitable for bathrooms, conservatories, and areas where real wood would struggle. Ideal where waterproofing is a priority over authenticity.

Note: This information is for guidance only. Always consult a professional flooring installer before purchasing.

Floating vs Glue-Down vs Nail-Down

Floating: boards click or secret-nail together without fixing to the subfloor. Quick, DIY-friendly, reversible. Suitable for most domestic applications on concrete or timber.

Glue-down: boards bonded directly to the subfloor with adhesive. More solid feel, preferred for UFH, large open-plan areas and commercial environments. Not DIY-friendly.

Nail-down: used on timber subfloors. Boards are secret-nailed through the tongue into battens or a timber subfloor.

Subfloor Preparation

The subfloor must be clean, dry, flat, and structurally sound. For concrete: check moisture levels (RH must be below 75% or use a surface DPM). Level high spots with a grinder and fill dips with self-levelling compound. Tolerance: no more than 3mm variation over a 1.8m span. For timber: check for flex, squeaks and protruding nails.

Expansion Gaps

Always leave an expansion gap of at least 10–15mm around all fixed objects including walls, door frames, pipes and islands. Without this gap, the floor will buckle when it expands in warmer weather. Cover with skirting boards or beading after installation.

Acclimation

Most engineered wood should acclimate in the installation room for 48–72 hours before fitting (up to 7 days for solid wood). Leave boards in their packaging, stacked flat, at normal living temperature (15–22°C). Skipping acclimation is a leading cause of gapping, cupping and installation failure.

Underlay

For floating engineered over concrete: combined vapour barrier and foam or felt underlay (3–5mm). Over timber: standard foam or felt underlay. For underfloor heating: use a thin, low-tog UFH-rated underlay. Never use underlay with glue-down installations.

Installing Herringbone Flooring

Find the centre of the room and mark a reference line at 45 degrees to the longest wall. Dry-lay several rows first to check the pattern. Every board is cut at 45 degrees. Allow 15–20% extra material for waste. Professional installation is strongly recommended.

Note: These guides are for informational purposes only. We are not responsible for issues arising from use of this information. Always consult a qualified flooring professional.

Wood Grades Explained

Wood grade describes the natural character of the timber surface. Common grades include:

  • Prime / Select: Uniform colour, minimal knots, giving a clean and contemporary look.
  • Natural: Some colour variation and small knots, making it the most popular balance of character and consistency.
  • Rustic / Character: Prominent knots, colour variation, mineral streaks, giving maximum natural character.

Rustic and natural grades hide wear and scratches better than pale, uniform prime grades in high-traffic areas.

Surface Finishes

UV-cured lacquer: The hardest, most durable factory finish. Little ongoing maintenance required. Requires full professional re-lacquer after 8–12 years.

Hardwax oil: Penetrates the wood grain rather than sitting on top. More natural feel underfoot. Easier to spot-repair than lacquer but requires re-oiling every 1–3 years.

Brushed and smoked finishes: Mechanical or chemical treatments that enhance the natural grain texture and create aged or contemporary looks.

Janka Hardness

Hardness in wood flooring is measured by the Janka scale. Hardest commonly available species: hickory, wenge, Brazilian cherry. Mid-range (and most popular): European oak, which is hard enough for all domestic use including hallways and kitchens. Softer species like pine are not recommended for high-traffic areas.

FSC & PEFC Certification

FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) and PEFC (Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certification) certify that timber comes from responsibly managed forests. Both are accepted in green building standards. Look for these logos when comparing suppliers.

Note: Grades and finish names vary by manufacturer. Always request samples before ordering.

Daily Cleaning

Use a dry microfibre mop or soft-bristle brush to remove dust and grit. For deeper cleaning, use a pH-neutral wood floor cleaner diluted in water with a well-wrung mop. Never use a soaking wet mop on wood floors.

Never use: steam mops, bleach, ammonia-based or acidic (vinegar) cleaners, wax on lacquered floors, abrasive scourers, or soaking wet mops.

Re-Oiling

Re-oiling is recommended every 1–3 years for oiled floors in domestic settings. Clean the floor thoroughly, lightly abrade with a fine-grit pad, apply a thin coat of the manufacturer's maintenance oil in the direction of the grain, and buff off any excess before it dries. High-traffic areas may need attention annually.

Re-Lacquering

Lacquered floors typically need a full re-lacquer every 8–12 years. Watch for areas where the finish looks dull, dry, or worn as the trigger for re-finishing.

Sanding & Refinishing

Engineered wood can be sanded if the wear layer is thick enough. A 2mm layer allows one light sand; a 4–6mm layer allows two to four refinishes. You cannot sand below the wear layer. Solid wood can be sanded many more times across its lifetime.

Scratch Repair

Light surface scratches on oiled floors: rub in a small amount of maintenance oil. It fills the scratch and blends with the surrounding surface. For lacquered floors: a colour-matched wax filler stick can minimise light scratches. Deep scratches may require localised sanding and re-finishing, or board replacement.

UV Fading

All real wood floors change colour over time. This is natural, not a defect. UV light from windows causes the most significant change. Use rugs near windows, rotate furniture occasionally, and consider UV-filtering blinds or film in rooms with direct sunlight.

Note: Always use products recommended by your floor's manufacturer. This information is for general guidance only.

Cupping & Warping

Cupping (board edges higher than the centre) is caused by moisture imbalance, where the underside absorbs more moisture than the top. Common causes: damp subfloor, missing vapour barrier, plumbing leak. If the moisture source is identified and removed quickly, mild cupping may reverse naturally. Severe cases require professional assessment.

Gaps Between Boards

Small gaps in winter are normal seasonal movement and typically close in spring and summer as humidity rises. Large permanent gaps or gaps appearing soon after installation indicate inadequate acclimation, a wet subfloor, or aggressive central heating. A humidifier can help stabilise the indoor environment and reduce seasonal movement.

Creaking Floors

Almost always caused by movement between surfaces, such as boards rubbing against each other, the subfloor, or fixings. In floating floors, the most common cause is an uneven subfloor with high spots causing boards to flex under load. Other causes: boards installed too tightly (no expansion gap), or a loose timber subfloor. Address by identifying the specific boards and the subfloor beneath them.

Water Damage

Act quickly. Remove standing water immediately with dry towels or a wet vacuum. Increase air circulation with fans and dehumidifiers. Do not use a heat gun or steam. Once dry, assess the damage. Minor staining on an oiled floor may be treatable with localised sanding and re-oiling. Significant swelling or structural damage requires board replacement. Contact your insurer before repairs if caused by a flood or plumbing failure.

Fading & Colour Change

All real wood changes colour with UV exposure. This is natural. Oak typically darkens and warms with age. Uneven fading is most noticeable when furniture is moved after years in the same position. Use rugs near windows, rotate furniture, and use UV-filtering window film or blinds.

Scratches & Dents

Light scratches on oiled floors: apply maintenance oil with a cloth. Lacquered floors: use a colour-matched repair pen or wax filler. Deep scratches penetrating the wear layer may require board replacement. Hard species (oak, ash, hickory) and a durable finish (UV lacquer or hardwax oil) reduce the risk of scratching in high-traffic areas.

Note: For significant structural damage, always consult a professional flooring installer. This guide is for general informational purposes only.
Common questions

Frequently Asked Questions

Straight answers to the most common questions about buying, installing and caring for wood floors.

Engineered wood flooring is real wood flooring made from a genuine hardwood surface layer bonded to a stable core of cross-ply birch plywood or HDF. The top layer, known as the wear layer, is the wood you see and walk on. Beneath it, the layered core resists expansion and contraction caused by central heating and humidity changes, making it better suited to most installations than solid wood. See full guide: What Is Engineered Wood Flooring

Yes. The surface of engineered wood flooring is genuine solid hardwood, the same oak, walnut or ash you would find on a solid wood floor. It is not a photograph or print. The difference is in the construction beneath the surface, where a stable plywood core replaces the full timber plank. You are walking on real wood.

Solid wood flooring is a single plank of timber from top to bottom, typically 18–22mm thick. Engineered wood flooring has the same real hardwood surface but is built on a layered plywood core. This makes engineered wood more dimensionally stable, compatible with underfloor heating, and suitable for concrete subfloors. Solid wood is more susceptible to movement in centrally heated homes. See full guide: Solid Wood vs Engineered Wood vs Laminate

Herringbone flooring is a style of parquet where rectangular wood blocks are laid in a staggered zigzag pattern, with each block at a 90-degree angle to the adjacent block. The result resembles the skeleton of a herring fish. It is one of the most popular flooring patterns and works well in hallways, living rooms and open-plan spaces. Available in both engineered and solid wood; specialist installation required.

Hardness in wood flooring is measured by the Janka hardness scale. The hardest commonly available species for flooring are hickory, wenge and Brazilian cherry, followed by hard maple and ash. European oak, the most popular flooring timber, sits in the mid-range and is hard enough for all domestic applications including hallways and kitchens. Avoid softer species like pine in high-traffic areas.

Yes, wood flooring is widely regarded as a premium feature that adds value and buyer appeal. Estate agents consistently report that real wood floors are among the top features buyers look for. Engineered wood flooring throughout a property can increase perceived value and help a property sell faster, particularly in kitchens, living rooms and hallways.

Measure the length and width of the room in metres and multiply them together to get the square meterage. For rooms with alcoves or bay windows, measure each section separately and add them together. Always add a minimum of 10% for cutting waste, or 15% for herringbone or diagonal patterns. Round up to the nearest full pack. Order slightly more than you think you need, as dye lots change, and it may be impossible to match boards exactly if you run short.

FSC stands for Forest Stewardship Council, an international certification body that verifies timber products come from responsibly managed forests. An FSC-certified floor gives assurance that the timber was harvested in a way that protects biodiversity and the long-term health of the forest. PEFC is a similar certification. Both are accepted in green building standards. Look for the FSC or PEFC logo on product packaging.

Yes, always. Wood expands and contracts with changes in temperature and humidity. An expansion gap of at least 10–15mm must be left around all fixed objects: walls, door frames, pipes and islands. Without this gap, the floor has nowhere to move and will buckle or crack. The gap is hidden by skirting boards or beading after installation. Never nail or glue the floor into the expansion gap.

Most engineered wood flooring should acclimatise in the room where it will be installed for a minimum of 48–72 hours before fitting. Some manufacturers recommend up to 7 days for solid wood. The boards should be left in their packaging, stacked flat in the room at normal living temperature (15–22°C). Skipping acclimation is one of the most common causes of gapping, cupping and installation failure.

It depends on your subfloor and the specific product. Floating installation is quicker, DIY-friendly and reversible, suitable for most domestic applications on both concrete and timber subfloors. Glue-down bonds boards directly to the subfloor for a more solid, permanent feel. It is preferred for underfloor heating, large open-plan areas and commercial environments. See full guide: Floating vs Glue-Down vs Nail-Down

Yes, engineered wood flooring is compatible with most underfloor heating systems. The maximum surface temperature should not exceed 27°C. The floor must be heated up gradually before and after installation using a commissioning procedure. Solid wood flooring is generally not recommended over underfloor heating. Always check the manufacturer's specific UFH guidelines before purchasing. See full guide: Wood Flooring and Underfloor Heating

Floating engineered wood with a click system is one of the more DIY-friendly floor installations and can be tackled by a competent home improver with the right tools. However, subfloor preparation, moisture testing and getting the layout right are critical. Glue-down, nail-down and herringbone or parquet installations are best left to a professional fitter. Always read the manufacturer's installation guide before starting.

Yes, in most cases engineered wood can be laid over existing ceramic or porcelain tiles, provided the tiles are firmly bonded, flat and in good condition. Loose, cracked or hollow tiles must be removed first. Bear in mind that laying over tiles raises the floor height, which may affect door clearance and transitions to adjacent rooms.

For daily cleaning, use a dry microfibre mop or a soft-bristle brush to remove dust and grit. For deeper cleaning, use a pH-neutral wood floor cleaner diluted in water with a well-wrung mop. Never use a soaking wet mop on wood floors. Avoid steam mops, bleach, vinegar, wax on lacquered floors, and abrasive cleaners. See full guide: How to Clean Wood Floors

No. Steam mops should never be used on real wood flooring, whether solid or engineered. The combination of heat and moisture penetrates the surface finish, causes the wood grain to raise, promotes swelling at board joints and can permanently damage the floor. Use a well-wrung damp mop and a pH-neutral wood floor cleaner instead.

For oiled floors in a typical domestic setting, re-oiling is recommended every 1–3 years depending on traffic. High-traffic areas such as hallways and kitchens may need attention annually. Lacquered floors require a full re-lacquer every 8–12 years, though the floor may benefit from a maintenance coat every few years. Watch for areas where the finish looks dull, dry or worn as the trigger for re-finishing.

Yes, if the wear layer is thick enough. A wear layer of 2mm can be lightly sanded once. A wear layer of 4–6mm can typically be sanded and refinished two to four times over the floor's life. You cannot sand engineered wood down to the core. Once the wear layer is gone, the floor needs replacing. Always check the wear layer specification before purchasing if refinishing is a priority. See full guide: Sanding and Restoring Wood Floors

Cupping, where board edges are higher than the centre, is caused by moisture imbalance. The underside of the board is absorbing more moisture than the top. Common causes include a damp subfloor, a missing or inadequate vapour barrier on a concrete subfloor, or a plumbing leak. In many cases, if the moisture source is identified and removed quickly, mild cupping will reverse naturally as the floor dries out. See full guide: Cupping and Warping Troubleshooting

Small gaps between boards during winter are normal seasonal movement and will typically close again as humidity rises in spring. Wood shrinks when the air is dry, and central heating is the main cause in homes. If gaps are large, permanent, or appeared soon after installation, the cause may be inadequate acclimation, a wet subfloor, or overly aggressive central heating. A humidifier can help stabilise the indoor environment.

Creaking is almost always caused by movement between surfaces, such as boards rubbing against each other, against the subfloor, or against fixings. In floating floors, the most common cause is an uneven subfloor causing individual boards to flex under load. Other causes include boards installed too tightly without adequate expansion gaps. In most cases, creaking can be reduced by identifying the specific boards and addressing the subfloor beneath them.

Act quickly. Remove standing water immediately with dry towels or a wet vacuum. Move furniture and increase air circulation with fans and dehumidifiers. Do not use a heat gun or steam. Once dry, assess the extent of the damage. Minor staining on an oiled floor may be treatable with localised sanding and re-oiling. Significant swelling, cupping or structural damage will require board replacement. If caused by a plumbing leak or flood, contact your insurer before carrying out repairs. See full guide: Water and Moisture Damage

Yes, engineered wood flooring is a popular and practical choice for kitchens. Its layered construction is more resistant to moisture and temperature fluctuations than solid wood. Choose a product with a durable surface finish, use rugs near the sink and dishwasher, and clean up spills promptly. Solid wood is not recommended for kitchens. For households with young children or frequent heavy spillage, VSPC flooring may be a more practical alternative. See full guide: Room-by-Room Buying Guide

Traditional real wood flooring, whether solid or engineered, is not recommended for bathrooms due to high humidity and direct water contact. If you want a wood look in a bathroom, VSPC or LVT (luxury vinyl tile) flooring offers genuine wood-effect visuals with full waterproofing. Some manufacturers produce bathroom-specific engineered boards with enhanced moisture protection, but these require very careful installation and maintenance.

Hallways require the most durable wood flooring due to constant foot traffic, dirt and door abrasion. Choose a hard species such as oak, ash or hickory, with a tough surface finish such as UV lacquer or hardwax oil. Wider boards tend to show less dirt between joints. Engineered wood is preferred over solid in hallways due to its stability, particularly near exterior doors where temperature and humidity fluctuations are greater. See full guide: Room-by-Room Buying Guide

Wood flooring can work well with pets, but requires consideration. Dog claws can scratch softer species. Choose a hard species such as oak or hickory and a hardwax-oil finish, as oiled floors are easier to spot-repair than lacquered floors. Keep pet nails trimmed, use rugs where pets rest or play, and address accidents immediately as pet urine is particularly damaging to wood floors if left.

Yes, real wood stair treads and risers are a popular premium choice. However, stair installation is significantly more complex than flat floor installation and should always be carried out by a professional. Each tread requires a nosing, a specially profiled edge piece, to meet building regulations and safety standards. Engineered wood is preferred on stairs as it is less likely to move and split.

It is generally not recommended. Conservatories experience extreme temperature swings, very hot in summer and cold in winter, and high humidity, all of which cause excessive expansion and contraction in real wood. Even engineered wood will struggle in this environment without effective heating, cooling and ventilation control. VSPC or porcelain tiles are more practical choices for conservatories.
Free resources

Downloadable Guides

Professional installation and reference guides, free to download. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions alongside these guides.

General Installation & Maintenance Guide
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Site Conditions Guide
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Underfloor Heating Installation Guideline
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Engineered Wood Flooring Installation Guide
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Herringbone Wood Flooring Installation Guide
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VSPC Installation & Warranty Guide
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These guides are for informational purposes only. We are not responsible for issues, damages, losses or injuries resulting from use of the information provided. Always consult a qualified flooring professional.

Disclaimer

Always consult professional and insured flooring professionals for installation or repairs. Following these guidelines does not replace the expertise of certified professionals. This website is for informational purposes only. We are not responsible or liable for any issues, damages, losses or injuries resulting from use of the information provided.